Over the Mountain

On one’s initial day on the Camino Francés, the first decision is which route to take over the Pyrenees: the Napoleon or the Valcarlos Route? Having walked them both, I can say that they are both great routes heading to Roncesvalles. The majority of pilgrims choose the Napoleon Route and on a clear day, the views are grand. When weather isn’t cooperating, the Valcarlos Route might be the better way across. Both routes take about the same amount of time, but the Valcarlos Route is a little flatter in the beginning before it, like the Napoleon, starts uphill. A challenging day will be had on both. If you want a route with fewer pilgrims, choose the Valcarlos. Plus, in Valcarlos, there are places to stay or eat before beginning the second half of the trek to the summit and then the downhill into Roncevalles. Either way, completing the 24 kilometer first day stage will bring great satisfaction once you reach the Colegiata.